Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Pie Interlude

We interrupt this search for enlightenment with a brief discussion of pie and pie crust. I feel very strongly, I should note, that the search for enlightenment and the search for really good pie are very similar:

Search for Spiritual Enlightenment:
Feeling vaguely dissatisfied with life
Searching for deeper meaning
Feeling that there must be something you can do to elevate your spirit
A general mistrust of the stereotypical “church” or organized religion as it is portrayed in the media
Experiencing moments of bliss while meditating, chanting, singing
Feeling connected through spiritual community

Search for Pie Nirvana:
Feeling vaguely dissatisfied with current pie selections
Searching for really good pie that tastes like the ones your Grandma used to make
Feeling that there must be some pie out there that could elevate one’s taste buds
A general mistrust of common, chain-store bakery pie made without love by sad-faced, overworked and underpaid people
Experiencing moments of bliss while rolling out the crust and flipped it without a tear into the pie plate
Feeling connected through pie appreciation


Feel free to skip this section if you are not pie-inclined (you know who you are… Bunny!).

I made a lovely apple strawberry pie a few days ago and thought I’d share my recipe. But first, a word or a thousand about pie crust. Where do you stand on pie crust? Thick? Thin? Crispy? Soft? Pre-baked so the bottom isn’t all pasty-beige and raw? Special ingredients so that the crust has a personality all its own? Mix the dough by hand? Food processor? Mixer? Lay it on me, I really want to know. Please take my pie and pie crust survey. It's short and sweet, I promise.

Googled apple strawberry recipes- sad selection, pre-made crust?!! WTF? I know some of you may think you can’t make a pie crust or you don’t have time. Call me. I will walk you through the process. Or we’ll make a pie together. Bring it on.

I have to tell you- I am kind of low tech when it comes to cooking. This means that things take me a bit longer than they might if I had all the newfangled tools, like a microwave or a big Cuisinart. I suppose it’s stupid of me not to invest in some of these things, as one thing I’m always bemoaning is my lack of time to cook and bake. But part of the whole reason for baking is taking the time to do it and make something to feed yourself and others. I like to infuse my baked goods with positive juju too. Next time you make something, send it your love and see what happens.

But I digress, as usual. What I’m trying to say is that I do most things by hand. Like mixing pie crust. Or whipping cream, but I whip cream by hand because I’m a bit of a show-off, not because I don’t have a pink KitchenAid mixer sitting on my counter. But also, I get confused easily, and if it’s just my hands and nothing to wrangle but the dough, I’m good to go. Plus, I hate cleaning those dang blades.

This recipe is adapted from the wonderful and fun James McNair and his Pie Book. I like his version of pie crust:

3 cups flour (I usually just use unbleached, all-purpose flour)
1 tsp salt
2 tsp sugar
1 cup unsalted butter right out of the fridge (don’t let it sit out and reach room temp- you want it chilly! And I know a lot of people like to use shortening or other ingreds in their crust, but I like the butter way. I am going to experiment with some other fats… more on that later.)
½ cup or more of ice water (I usually measure out a ½ cup of water in a measuring cup and then drop an ice cube in)

This is enough dough to make a double crust pie or two single crust pies.

Mix the flour, salt and sugar. If you’re feeling wild and flirty, try sprinkling a little sumpin’ sumpin’ into the flour mixture. Like some cocoa powder or cardamom or cayenne. Cut the butter into little chunks (about the size of square grapes, if that helps) and drop into the flour mixture. Work the butter chunks into the flour as quickly as possible- the key is not to over mix, kind of like with pancakes. I find that I use a twisting motion with one or both hands as I break up the butter- kind of like a washing machine rotor. Sprinkle the flour with the ice water (just don’t let the ice cube fall in) and combine again until the dough starts to hold together. If it’s still really crumbly, add more water. I usually wind up using another few tablespoons of ice water.

Divide the dough in half and place each half on a sheet of wax paper. Gather into a ball and press flat. Wrap the paper around the crust and place in the fridge for 15 minutes.

Now for the rolling out of the pie dough. If you’ve got a marble pastry board, you are golden, but a kitchen counter will do. Sprinkle some flour around your work surface and break out your rolling pin. (Again, I heart marble for this job, but my mom has this really gorgeous mahogany or some such dark wood rolling pin that is completely smooth and just tapers at the edges so you don’t get any lines from the sides of your rolling pin.)

Roll the dough out from the center toward the edges so you get a uniform circle that’s around 1/8 of an inch thick. Eyeball your pie pan to make sure the dough circle will be big enough and overlap the sides so you can have fun with fluting the edges.

If your dough breaks at any point, just brush the broken edges with a tiny bit of cold water and press them gently together.

I’ll leave it to you to figure out how to get your pie dough from the counter to your pie pan. I never know how I’ll wind up transferring it. Sometimes it sticks a bit and a spatula is needed to gently loosen the bottom, before folding it in half and lifting it into the pan.

I used to ignore this next step, but then I read in Baking with Julia about how the gluten relaxes if you chill the dough for another 30 minutes or so. Why, you ask, do I need to worry about the gluten’s state of relaxation? Well, apparently gluten, when not relaxed, will kind of bunch up, like you do around the shoulders after a particularly stressful day at work or when your child decides to reach into their diaper and create poo paintings on their bedroom walls. Your dough will start to contract and that lovely edge you’ve created will sink down into the side of the pan. So let that gluten relax, I say. And take that 30 minutes to pour yourself a glass of wine and kick your feet up or listen to Chamma Chamma at high volume while shaking your bahootie. Or better yet, watch it!

Now it’s time to pre-bake that suckah! (Or bake it all the way if you’re going to make a pie whose filling doesn’t need to be baked.)

Preheat your oven to 400° F.

Place some foil over the unbaked pie crust and gently press it down. Make sure your foil is bigger than the pie so the foil just covers the edges. Fill the shell with pie weights (ceramic balls about the size of a large pea- you can get them at most cookware stores), dried beans, or rice. I have pie weights, but I’ve also found dried kidney beans to be very effective. Bake just until the crust feels slightly set, roughly 7 to 10 minutes. Set a timer so you don’t burn your crust!

Remove the pie crust from the oven, take the pie weights and foil off, and prick the sides and bottom of the crust with a fork so it won’t puff up like mine did the first time. Stick that pie crust back into the oven for another 5 minutes or so. Voila! Pre-baked pie crust.

Here’s my recipe for Apple-Starberry Pie. I call it that because I was making a pie for a picture for a party invite and it needed a star on the crust. If you cut out a star in the top crust, it looks lovely – you can see the gorgeous fusion of apple strawberry white and red mixing and mingling into a mélange of yum. It’s also apple strawberry because that’s what I had on hand. But it worked out so well, I thought I’d share it. Pretty simple combo.

Apple Starberry Pie

Preheat your oven to 425° F.

In a large bowl, combine:

¾ cup sugar – use brown sugar for a richer flavor (I sometimes use a bit less as I don’t like a super-sweet pie)
¼ tsp salt
¾ tsp cinnamon
a generous pinch of cloves
a generous pinch of allspice

Mix well. Add 8 cups of peeled, cored, and thinly sliced apples (I like Granny Smith or Pinata) and 1 cup of sliced strawberries. Mix well to make sure the fruit is nicely coated with the sugar mixture. Add 1 TBS lemon juice and 1 tsp lemon zest and toss like a salad so everything’s incorporated. Put the fruit into the cooled pie shell and if you’re feeling decadent, dot with a few tablespoons of butter.

Roll out the rest of the pie dough for the top crust, making a slightly larger circle than the pie. Place the top crust over the rest of the pie and moisten the edges with beaten egg white to paste the two crust edges together. Pinch off excess dough and cut some air vents or decorative shapes. (Or the initials of the person you’re making the pie for, if it’s a gift.) You can brush the top crust with a mixture of an egg yolk and 2 TBS whipping cream for a shinier glaze. I don’t always do this because I find that it sometimes makes the top brown quicker. I do like to sprinkle the top with a cinnamon sugar mixture, for added sweetness.

Before I put the pie in the oven, I usually cover the edges of the crust with those handy metal pie shields. You can get them at most cookware stores or fashion your own out of heavy duty aluminum foil. That way, your crust edges don’t get too burnt before the rest of the pie’s done.

Bake for 10 minutes. Then turn down the temp to 350° and bake for around 40 minutes more, until crust is golden brown and the fruit is nice and squishy.

Let cool for a few minutes and serve with vanilla ice cream. Yum!

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

You know Harriet, I LOVE pie.
I made up a pie the other day. Kind of a chesting one as I used a premade crust, but tasty all the same.
1 baked pie crust
4oz creme fresh-whipped ( by hand of course!)until very thick.
16oz jar lemon curd
1 bar VERY dark chocolate
1basket fresh raspberries or berry of choice.
Melt chocolate & spread over bottome of pie crust.
Fold lemon curd & raspberries gently into whipped creme fresh
Fill crust with creamy goodness & chill in freezer for 1hr until slightly set up.
Eat a giant slice!
Love, Rebecca

jennifer said...

I love pie. Pie is way better than cake, any day. But I have pie crust inadequacies. Did you say I just need to come to your house and you will walk me through making crust? When are you free?!?

Oh and one of my personal fave pies to make is cranberry apple. I totally wing the recipe, but its sliced apples, fresh cranberries, tapioca (for thickening) cinnamon, brown or white sugar and some maple syrup.

Of course, lately I've been on a banana bread kick, but that's for another post!

Anonymous said...

have you tried the trick where you use half the water and half VODKA? doesn't make it as tough (doesn't activate the gluten)